NEW 2010 8.5' X 24' + 3' V NOSE ENCLOSED TRAILER

NEW 2010 8.5' X 24' + 3' V NOSE ENCLOSED CAR TRAILER 6'6" INSIDE HEIGHT, FLAT ROOF, 36" SIDE DOOR, RAMP DOOR WITH BEAVER TAIL, (8) 1000 LB LIGHT DUTY "D" RINGS, 3/4" PLYWOOD FLOOR, AND 3/4" PLYWOOD WALLS, FLOOR CROSS MEMBERS ON 16" CENTERS, WALL POST ON 16" CENTERS, ROOF CROSS MEMBERS ON 16" CENTERS, (2) 5200 LB DEXTER DROP AXLES, NEW 225/75/15 TRAILER TIRES ON 6 LUG CHROME MOD WHEELS!!! GIVE US A CALL OR COME BY (910) 791-5414 WWW.ECOTRAILERS.COM $5600.00

NEW 2010 7' X 16' + V NOSE ENCLOSED TRAILER WITH (2) 3500 LB DEXTER DROP AXLES, 205/75/15 NEW TRAILER TIRES ON WHITE MOD WHEELS, 4 WHEEL BRAKES, 6'6" INSIDE HEIGHT ROUND ROOF, 36" SIDE DOOR AND REAR RAMP DOOR, 3/4" PLYWOOD FLOOR AND 3/8" PLYWOOD WALLS. WE GIVE YOU A TRUE TRAILER AT A GREAT PRICE! WE DON'T CUT OUR INSIDE HEIGHT TO 6' TO SAVE MONEY, WE DON'T CUT OUR LENGTH AND TAKE THE V NOSE OUT OF THE LENGTH OF THE TRAILER TO SAVE MONEY, AND WE DON'T DO A CHEAP FLAT ROOF TO SAVE MONEY, WE JUST CUT THE PRICE OF THE REAL TRAILER TO BE LESS THAN WHAT OUR COMPETITION SELLS THERE CHEAP TRAILER FOR!!! HAVE THEM PRICE YOU A ROUND ROOF 7'X16' + V NOSE TRAILER WITH THESE OPTIONS AND 6'6" INSIDE HEIGHT AND SEE WHO HAS THE BEST DEAL! AND HAVE THEM GIVE YOU A 3 YEAR NATIONWIDE WARRANTY WITH THAT TOO! GIVE US A CALL OR STOP BY AND SEE US (910) 791-5414 WWW.ECOTRAILERS.COM

NEW 6X12 + V NOSE ENCLOSED TRAILER

NEW 6' X 12' + 2' V NOSE ENCLOSED TRAILER, 3500 LB EZ LUBE AXLE, 205/75/15 NEW TRAILER TIRES ON WHITE MOD WHEELS, 6'6" INSIDE HEIGHT WITH ROUND ROOF AND ROUND V NOSE, 36" SIDE DOOR, REAR RAMP DOOR, MANY COLORS TO CHOSE FROM. WHEN YOU COMPARE THIS TRAILER TO OUR FRIENDLY COMPETITORS TRAILERS PLEASE LOOK AT THERE 6' FLAT ROOF! YOU WON'T FIND A BETTER DEAL THAN THIS JUST TRY! IF YOU FIND A BETTER DEAL BRING IT TO US AND WE WILL SAVE YOU MONEY! WE HAVE WHITE, BLACK, RED, BEIGE, DARK GRAY, BLUE, SILVER, AND YELLOW IN STOCK NOW! (910) 791-5414 WWW.ECOTRAILERS.COM $2550.00

www.ecoautoservice.com

I have a place for auto repair and service that is just great. Check out www.ecoautoservice.com get an oil change for only $15.90 or Front OR Rear Brakes for $69.90, Diesel Oil Change for $69.90 includes up to 15 qts of Shell Rotella T 15w40 oil and filter, check out there services page for more info.

www.ecotrailers.com

Do you need a trailer? Enclosed, Cargo, Horse, Utility, Landscape, Equipment, Motorcycle, Dump or any other trailer go see www.ecotrailers.com they have what you need and can order anything you want. The best prices around on any trailer! They also do trailer repair and keep parts and accessories in stock. Check them out today!

WINTER... FREEZING!!! Do you know what to do?

Let me tell you, if you are one of the RV owners that think all you need to do is just use a blow-out plug on your RVs water system you are sorely mistaken. First of all your RVs water system is only rated for 55-65psi MAX!!! Have you looked at the gauge on your air compressor lately? Is it set to 55psi? No... It is more likely set to around 100 to 150 psi, THAT IS WAY TOO MUCH. Yes blowing out the lines might work but what you are forgetting is that inside a tube when you have water in it and blow air through the tube all your going to do is spread out the water. Just as soon as you remove the air pressure the water will run back down to the lowest point in the line. Take for example, put some liquid in a bendable straw, bend the straw into a 90 degree angle straight up toward the ceiling, now blow. What happened? You cleared some of the liquid out of the straw but not all, right? Well that's what happens with your RV you can get some or maybe even most but you will not get all. Now when the water freezes it happens very slowly so all the water in the elbow pipe fitting gets solid and then once it gets solid along its journey to ice it expands and in turn breaks the fitting. Now just so you know the fittings are more likely to break than the pipe depending on what you have in your RV. (Did You Know? If your plumbing tube is GRAY you have the old polybutylene the not good stuff there has been recalls on this, if your tube is Opaque, Blue, or Red you have pex that is the good stuff.) Now that you have proven to your self that blowing the lines won't get all the water out, your forgetting an important part of the system, you can open all the faucets hot and cold sides but its hard to blow out the toilet valve because your outside putting the air on the blow-out plug you can't hold the toilet valve open. Now I know some of you are going to say I will beat the system and have someone hold the toilet valve open for me while I put the air on it. Well smart thinking you just fixed the problem and prevented your self from freezing, there is no reason for you to continue to read this article you have it all figured out. Now for the rest of you that want to prevent the problem of freeze up. It is very simple. WINTERIZE the entire system including the toilet. Now it's easier than you may think. When I was in the business I built a winterizing system. You can do the same, I will give instructions later on how to build. Some RVs have a kit on the unit that will use the pump to do the work for you.

TO WINTERIZE:

1) First thing! THROW AWAY THAT BLOW-OUT PLUG! You don't need it.

2) Drain the on board waste holding tanks and flush with allot of clean water so you can leave the valves open when your done. (Dump the waste tanks in an approved waste dump station) The reason for leaving them open is because the air flowing around an open valve will dry any left over moisture so if you need to close the valves during the winter you can. If you close them they might freeze and you won't be able to open them easily.

3) Drain the on board fresh water tank and leave open this is a good time to put some bleach in your tank just to clean it and help prevent mold. Put the bleach in before you dump the waste tanks so the bleach water can be used to clean the waste tanks during the flushing process.

4)Drain the water heater. Do this by opening the water heater access door on the outside of your camper and removing the plug at the bottom of the heater. Do not reinstall, leave this plug out. I just leave it laying in the bottom of the water heater compartment and close the door back, before you close this up, open the pressure relief valve to help the water heater tank drain. Pressure relief valve is shown below in the yellow square.

5) Set your water heater by-pass valve kit to winterize. This way you do not fill up your 6-10 gal water heater tank with $5.00 gal antifreeze. If you don't have a water heater by-pass kit you can install one fairly easily.

Now I will tell you how to fix your RV to have your own on board winterizing kit. First find your water pump. Now you will find the input side of the system, the tube coming from the fresh water tank going into the pump. Cut that line about 6 to 18 inches back from the pump. Now install a (I like SeaTech) 3 way valve in line where you cut the tube going in the pump. Now insert the stackable hose barb into the single side of the 3 way valve. After that get a piece of 1/2" flex clear vinyl tubing about 18 - 24" long and one Stainless Steel hose clamp from the hardware store or home center. Install the vinyl tubing on the barb and put the clamp inplace to hold the tube on the barb. Now all you have to do is turn the valve and insert the clear vinyl tube into the bottle of antifreeze and turn on the pump. Most RV water pumps are what we call on demand, which means they will run when the pressure is released when the pressure builds up they will shut off. Now all of your faucets should be still be turned off at this point.

Another tip. Get a small removable boat gas tank such as the Moeller Product # 003780, this is a 3.2 Gal tank you can put your antifreeze in and hook up your flex line to the tank. (Now be sure you DO NOT USE THIS TANK FOR GAS AT ANY TIME!!! This is the water system for your Home away from home. You don't want to drink gas do you? Mark this tank well you can also use spray paint and paint the tank a different color, the Krylon Fusion works on plastic.)

Most RV systems will only use 2.5 gals of antifreeze. So if you buy 4 gals you will be safe, fill up your winterizing tank and keep one for a spare.

6) Now go to the farthest faucet and start with only the cold side, lets say in the shower. Only open the cold water valve, Do NOT open the hot side. With the cold valve open watch for pink color to be solid pink, don't let it run for too long but long enough to be solid pink. (The reason for only opening the cold side is so you really know that your getting both the hot and cold lines full of antifreeze. If you open both at the same time you will not know for sure that they are correct.)

7) After you turn on all of your cold valves, (Don't forget the toilet and outside shower) then go in the same order and turn on the hot side and do the same as you did with the cold. After that is done turn off the water pump. I like to pull the water pump fuse so even if you turn on the switch the pump will not run.

You have CORRECTLY winterized your RV. Now you shouldn't have to worry about freezing.

If you have any questions please feel free to email me at rvrepair101@doneritemfg.com

RV Refrigerators

In the realm of RV refrigerators Dometic and Norcold are the leaders. I have worked on both and really like most features of both designs. We'll begin with the Dometic units- As you know you have many choices in the realm of RV food storage. Two way (LP Gas and AC) Three way (12v DC, LP Gas, and AC) single door no freezer, single door with small freezer, double door freezer on top, side by side, side by side with ice maker and so on. I like the aesthetics of the Dometic models better than Norcold, however I like and believe the Norcold is a better refrigerator due to there ease of use and "repairability". The Norcold seems to cool better than the Dometic here in Eastern North Carolina's humid climate. One to stay away from is the Dometic reefers with the automatic temp control. Don't think this will be one less thing you have to deal with because it will be one more thing you will have to deal with. Now there are ways to adjust the temp on these models- but it isn't fun. If you have the choice: stay away. There are many things you can do or have done to help prolong the life and function of your fridge regardless of brand. For example, you can keep the doors open if the unit is not on and cooling. Keep your door seals clean and wash often with bleach water. On the outside of the RV (where your dreaded reefer access door is) remove the door outside, you can use a coin or a screw driver to turn the tabs in the locks 1/4 turn to remove the cover. Now inspect the black coil of pipe in this compartment (this is called the cooling unit on every RV style reefer), if you see rust clean with a wire brush and spray with paint (MAKE SURE YOU TURN OFF THE UNIT AND THE LP GAS BEFORE SERVICING ANYTHING IN THIS COMPARTMENT) no open flames when spraying paint. Then look at any wiring and look for corrosion, if you find any you will need to clean or have an RV repair person come and clean it for you. Now look at the wood structure of the reefer cabinet- do you see any wood rot or water damage? If yes then that will need to be repaired asap you can do this yourself or get an RV repair person to do this for you. If you look to the right you will see the metal burner cover it should be snapped in or held in by a Philips screw driver, remove the cover and inspect this burner. Again make sure the unit is off and the LP Gas is turned off at the tank(s). If you see rust you may need to remove the burner and clean it out, when the rust falls it can fall into the burner and clog it up. These are just a few small things you can do yourself to help keep your RV reefer on track. If you have questions about this or any other RV item please feel free to email me at rvrepair101@doneritemfg.com